Wednesday, December 20, 2017

Shopping in 1909

 Bazar de l’hôtel de ville, Fontainebleau.
   I wonder how a description of this shop, the largest in the town, would sound 50 years hence. You go through a rather narrow vestibule, where soap, note-paper and ins, stud, etc. are displayed, into a large hall, height of two stories, a wide staircase at back, wide galleries round, and a roof of which the middle square is glazed. Cheap goods everywhere. Drapery, silks, nails, ironmongery, glass and earthenware, leather good, stationary on the ground floor; arranged on stalls and counters, in between which are spaces for walking. In the basement, articles de menage. The staircase lined on either rail with lighter articles of furniture. In the galleries, chiefly light furniture; extended on the walls, showy carpets flowered, etc., at such prices as 49 fr. We went to buy a screen. They had only one, four-fold, and we wanted three-fold. Ranged below it were several toy screens. The price of the sole screen was 19 fr. Near by were about a dozen cheap marble-top washstands. Wicker chairs and flimsy tables about. Still you could buy there almost everything (non-edible) that goes to the making of an ordinary house. The frontage of the shop is of course an ordinary house frontage. The shop itself must be a courtyard roofed over. It is in charge mainly of women. Sitting high at the cash desk near the entrance are two controlling women – one sharp and imperative in manner; with the table of electric switches at their right hand. They look up from books to direct entering customers, and when they know what customers want they call out a warning to the assistants within. Very smiling, with a mechanical saccharine smile.
   The bulk of the assistants are youngish girls; some pretty, all dressed in black, with black aprons, scissors, etc., and blackish hands. They do not seem keen, but rather bored. Certainly the wages must be low. Hours about 12 or 13 per day – that is to say, hours during which the shop is open. Besides these, there are a few men, who wear black smocks, and attend to furniture, ironmongery and similar departments. One of these, with one girl, is always at the étalage [display] at the front, where trinkets and souvenirs and post cards are exposed. Men seem even more discontented than the girls. I never saw any one there who looked like a proprietor or supreme boss. The whole shop is modelled on the big general shops in Paris. There are similar shops now in most provincial towns. In Toulouse there were half a dozen splendid ones.
   In all, the conditions of labour are disgusting to the social conscience., though probably better than in ataliers. There is a feeling of cutting down expenditure, especially wages, in order to sell cheaply, while making a good profit. A feeling that everybody concerned is secretly at the beginning of a revolt, and that the organisation of the whole organism are keeping out of the way. Yes, there is certainly this feeling! I am always uneasy when in such shops, as if I too were guilty for what is wrong in them. Of course nearly all shops are on the same basis of sweating, but in some it is masked in magnificence, so that one has to search for it.
   A handful of customers always in, and a continuous movement near the entrance.
   At closing time the étalage has to be carried in, and there is left a prodigious litter of bits of paper which has to be swept up. Then early in the morning (less than 12 hours after closing) there is the refixing an arrangement of the étalage, and the gradual recommencement of the day.

   Some of the women have a certain coquetterie, But not the young ones; the controlling women of 40 or so. These have the air of always being equal to the situation, but they are not. I remember once half the staff (it seemed) was worsted in an attempt to make a bicycle pump work that I had bought. They all conspired to convince me that it was quite in order, but I beat them, and they had to take the pump back. One of the controlling women began on a note of omniscient condescension to me, but she gradually lost her assurance, and fled. A man would not so easily have done that.
                                                                        Arnold Bennett's Journal, Monday, September 20th 1909

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